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Vente en ligne des vins des Vignobles Paul Jeune :
Domaine Monpertuis, Château Valcombe et Domaine La Croze

Vous êtes ici : Philosophie > La Presse parle du Domaine Monpertuis, Châteauneuf du Pape, Côtes du Rhône & Vin de Pays du Gard


MSNBC : Jeune's 2001 Vin de Pays du Gard delicious

Le Vin de Pays du Gard Counoise 2001 est élu "Vin de la Semaine" par Edward Deitch de MSNBC

July 17 - An outstanding wine from just next door to the village that produces one of the world’s great reds will do justice — for the remarkable price of $8.50 — to dinners that will cost you far more to make. It is the 2001 Vin de Pays du Gard from Domaine Monpertuis, made by Paul Jeune. This is a “country wine” from the Gard area to the west of the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape in France’s southern Rhône, where Jeune produces a number of more expensive wines that bear the Châteauneuf appellation.
Most wines from Châteauneuf are built around the grenache grape, the signature variety of the southern Rhône (syrah is the star of the northern Rhône). But under strict French wine laws, which govern how and where grapes are grown and precisely what can and cannot go into a wine, some 13 different varieties may be blended into red Châteauneuf. The more familiar include syrah and mourvèdre. Among the more obscure is counoise, which is grown only in this area.

Jeune makes his Vin de Pays almost entirely from counoise grapes grown on a 15-acre parcel known as the Ramière. About 10 percent grenache is mixed in to give a bit more spice, aromatic complexity and “a little more class to the wine,” as Neal Rosenthal, the importer, describes it. Counoise, he notes, has been “a seriously abused” variety that has suffered from overproduction. “If you let it go,” he says, “you get very uninteresting, very banal wine.” That is not the case here, as Jeune has placed an emphasis on controlling crop size.

The wine is balanced, well structured and powerful. Aromas of plum, raspberry and cedar give way to blackberry tastes and pleasing tannins that reminded me, on one level, of a well-made cabernet sauvignon. The wine has good acidity and an overall bright finish. To me, it represents what the French can still do better than anyone — make enviably good, refined and exciting wines at attractive prices.
About 1,000 cases of the Domaine Monpertuis Vin de Pays were imported into the United States, and it is available in many markets. I bought it at Chambers Street Wines in New York, which makes a specialty of these interesting, off-the-beaten-path wines. The counoise, which may be the only wine of its kind available in this country, is worth seeking out.

© 2005 MSNBC Interactive

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